Sunday, May 11, 2008
Thailand - Lazy Style!
As luck would have it, two friends of mine from Canada happened to be on Ko Lanta, an island a few hours away from Ao Nang. We boogied over there and had a fabulous four days, possibly longer, with them before their visa ran out and they had to head over to Malaysia*. We ended up staying on Ko Lanta for 10 days and enjoying each one, though neither of us have any idea where the time went. Our usual day consisted only of a 1.5 hr walk in the morning, breakfast, 2 h on the internet, lunch, some tv/reading, dinner, movie on tv, and bedtime. That isn't much to accomplish in a day, but it was a nice chance to chill out.
We eventually decided we needed a change of pace or risk permanent settlement in our lovely Ko Lanta cabin. We moved over to Ko Phi Phi and were suddenly in the thick of backpacker-land. This isn't to say it's bad, but it's one of those beach towns that doesn't pay much attention to the beach. Instead, the "town" is made up of snaking alleys of pubs, t-shirt shops and booze stalls. Some people's heaven, I know, but after a few days of grumpy service and drunk 20-somethings, we'd had enough and decided to dash back to the mainland for a few days in Phuket Town, where we are now.
The only other thing to mention was the terrifying ferry crossing to Phuket. I would never claim to be the best in boats, but we were both somewhere between green with seasickness and white with fear by the end of the trip. The boat kept luching and rolling side-to-side while huge waves smashed into the boat head-on. If this wasn't bad enough, the unatural creaking of the ferry, screams of locals and retching of tourists was enough to make fear creep into the boldest heart and bile rise in the most resolute throat. We were both very happy to hit the mainland, ship intact.
Tomorrow we head to Hong Kong and the real countdown to home is on - only about two weeks as of now. We'll be in Hong Kong for about nine days, then back in Thailand for another five. We head back to Australia on the 27th (and Broome on the 2nd), so to the people there, we'll see you soon!
Sorry about the lack of photos. I'll try to post some soon.
* We have come down with a serious case of "island time" and can't distinguish one day from another, so exact day counts can be tricky.
Things we did in Malaysia
Okay, behind again (surprise, surprise).
apparently smells like badly rotten meat when it blooms. Happily we missed the reek, but had the good fortune to see two of them (they have no specific blooming season and are only open for about nine days). This is one of the few things that Phil had not seen during his two previous trips to Malaysia.
We met a very nice Aussie on our last day in KK who had been to the Orang-utan Rehabilitation Centre and said that not only had he seen about seven of them, his whole group had been chased by Richie, the dominant male. Richie looked a lot more chilled out when we saw him (thankfully because he's huge) and we also got to see a number of mellow females and some very active babies. They only come down to be fed when
there isn't much fruit available in the forest, so we were lucky to be there at the right time and get to see all the fun.
fabulous Proboscis monkeys (all of whom look like little old men wearing white underpants) but we also had the amazing luck to see a flying lemur (a nocturnal animal) during the daytime! It was great, but of course I don't have a picture to post (though Leigh should be proud because all the ones up are ours, including the proboscis monkey who was only about five meters from Phil, happily munching on leaves, when this picture was taken). We did a number of very sweaty walks in the rainforest but saw the best wildlife near the park headquarters.After Kuching we headed to Melaka, a town on the coast just
South of Kuala Lumpur. Like everything we saw in Malaysia, we were happily surprised. The town was lovely, with a nice little canal running through it which you could stroll beside. We stayed in Chinatown and had the good fortune to be there for the weekend evening market where we ate our fair share of dim sums and little chocolate/caramel filled pancakes. Yummy.
out. Phil obviosly enjoyed the Maritime Museum (yarr!) and there was an interesting, but incredibly hot, Beauty Museum which documented various types of mutilation-for-beauty (piercings, neck/ear/etc stretching, waist-cynching). Friday, April 11, 2008
Malaysia-licious
fter a very brief stint back in Delhi, only because we couldn't get on a flight to Bangkok the same day as our Kathmandu-Delhi flight, we headed on to Thailand. My goodness, I never noticed how clean and orderly that country is. Imagine if I had returned to Canada or Australia right from India - I would have been gob-smacked for days. As it was, I spent the first day wandering around open-mouthed and enjoying the peace and quiet. We even went to McDonalds - hmmm, little burgers for the first time in 6 months! - and everyone did exactly what they should. No one cut in. No one let their children make a horrible mess and scream and shout. No one left their stuff behind on the table (and floor, and chairs...). It just all worked. Ah, amazing.We have spent most of the two weeks post-India not doing much at all. In Bangkok we walked around, shopped a little, both got haircuts (mine is very short now and a nice change). We flew from Bangkok to Kuala Lumpur and did the same - walked and shopped (though didn't get much as that city is expensive!).
dive groups were twice as big as they should have been (11-12 people), and simple things like mask de-fogger were missing. All in all, glad we went, won't be going again. NEPAL
few days and we managed to meet up with Andrea's friend from home, Barb, so that was nice seeing a friendly face, even if it was just for one day! Our stay in Kathmandu became extended as we both suffered from a dose of the flu, so most of the time was spent in our hotel room, oh the joys of travelling. We didn't miss much, we checked out the busy tourist area of Thamel, which is perfect if you want to buy counterfeit clothing or watch young kids sniffing solvents on the street, but quite frankly we could have stayed in Sunderland to see this. We did enjoy the tourist friendly restaurants, something that India seems to have completely missed the boat on.
We did check out the marvellously surreal temple to the tooth ache god! A gnarled lump of wood that is completely covered in coins which have been nailed in the wood?? I can't think of anything witty to write about the possible link between toothache, a lump of wood and nailed coins. Any suggestions please....
Once we'd semi recovered we headed to Pokhara, a wonderful, albeit touristy, town on the side
of a lake with magnificent mountain views. But with it's easy to walk on streets, lack of hassle, great selection of eateries and bars. Compared to India it was heaven.It was from here we organised our trek. We were to do the Annapurna Sanctuary trek to the Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) 4100 M , and we selected a route that would take 11 days.

The trekking was amazing, and it's made so much more comfortable due to the number of small guest houses that line the trails. So unlike other treks there's no need to sleep in a tent and eat out in the cold. No, here you got private rooms with real beds (!), hot showers, a fine selection of food choices and even heaters under the dinner tables. Luxury! Our guide and porter made the whole experience hassle free.
We had good weather which allowed us some wonderful views. It certainly got colder the higher we got, and we were very thankful for our rented down sleeping bags and jackets.
Unfortunately Andrea's knees were playing up, if she had made it up to the base camp it would have meant a slow and very painful descent. So to avoid any major knee damage she took a rest day as I pushed on. Once at the base camp the snow fall was so heavy I couldn't actually see
anything! The snow continued during the night and there was a risk of being snowed in here! Fortunately the snow had stopped and the morning was virtually clear and the views around the base camp were amazing. It sits in this large bowl surrounded by a ring of peaks, some over 8000m. I didn't stay long this morning as we had to get moving incase of any more snow and we had to pass a few avalanche prone areas before it got too late into the day.This also gave me plenty of time to catch up to Andrea.

With Andrea's knees giving trouble on the down, we opted for a short cut home, which saved us 2 days! Hooray!
We didn't spot any yaks or a yeti, but we did find a dead drowned rat in one of the toilets!
The last few hours of the trek were relaxing. It was funny passing trekkers who were just starting their trek, should they be envious of us on the brink of being home after 9 days, or should we be envious of them having marvellous days of some of the world's best trekking ahea
d of them? I think we looked happy, relieved and they looked happy, excited.The day we finished the trek was the Holi festival day where people (mainly kids) take great joy in covering people (mainly themselves and tourists) in coloured powder. So it was great fun seeing these brightly coloured people everywhere, Andrea ended up with bright red cheeks!
So it was back to Pokhara to get cleaned up after 9 days, get shaved and put on some clean clothes and head out for a few beers and hoped we wouldn't get recovered in paint!
We then headed back to Kathmandu avoiding Maoists, Tibetan demonstrators and anyone else who would slow us down.
India, the final chapter! Camel Strike!
age system can not cope with the volume of er, sewage should we say. Which is quite ironic as since we've been in India we are now quite used to coping with a lot of shit.
the dunes before we headed back to town, MISTAKE. Going down one of the steep dunes, my saddle worked it's way loose and started sliding down Simon's neck, ( Simon was the name of my camel), obviously this gave Simon the hump ( sorry, it had to be said!). I'm not an expert but I don't think camel's necks are designed to carry such a weight that was dumped on to it, we have
eaten a lot of curries in the last few months. I presumed Simon didn't take well to either my apology or explanation, as this was when he started trying to bite me. I don't think I'll ever forget his face or the noise he was making. Equally I don't think he'll forgot my face or the noise I was making. The saddle continued to slip forward and then sideways, I had flashbacks of Spirit (an unfriendly and ultra high speed horse I had the misfortune of sitting on [I cert
ainly wasn't riding it] in S. Africa) and images of being unceremonilessly dumped head first from what seemed like a great height into the sand. It was quite scary. I managed to free my feet from the 'stirrups' and fortunately Andrea's camel (Daniel, if your interested) was in reaching distance and I ungracefully boarded him. Thursday, February 28, 2008
Delhi onwards
We took the finest looking train we'd ever seen ( in India of course) to Agra, the home of the Taj Mahal. The super fast train is put on in the morning so people can do a day trip from Delhi, so it was mainly full of tourists. They even served tea and coffee and breakfast, it was more like a plane and certainly nothing like the other trains we have been getting around on. The first thing noticeable about Agra train station were the amount of people defecating on the track. The guide book didn't mention anything about this! We WILL be writing letters. Unfortunately this is not an uncommon sight in India. It doesn't leave much to the imagination. I could imagine some one having just arrived in India and spending a couple of days in a nice Delhi hotel, eating at good restaurants, then taking the wonderful train to Agra, having a bit of brekkie and then a bit of a nap thinking, "Ah, India's not too bad is it?" and then waking up in Agra train station and seeing THAT! Wow. I bet they weren't expecting to see the black hole of Kalcutta so soon!
Anyway, the Taj Mahal was amazing. Quite surreal seeing it with your own eyes. Too many cliches available to describe it. I took far too many photos, enough said.
Agra itself is a bit of a dump, it's train station hardly lets the town down. We resisted buying one of the many ' Via Agra - what a wonderful erection! ' ( or something like that) tee shirts.
We then headed into our final region, Rajasthan, expecting a lot more tourists which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but where there's tourists, there's touts.
So Rajasthan ( the land of the Kings), full of forts, palaces, men with huge moustaches and muticoloured turbans and saris.
Jaipur, the great bustling capital of Rajasthan, with it's pink walled old city, palace and a huge sun dial! A city of great contrasts, you walk over the road from the palace and you'll find yourself walking a round with goats, chickens, pigs, camels, the odd elephant and of course a few dogs and cows ( nothing new with these 2).
The nearby Amber fort was one of the best we'd seen.
Then to Pushkar, a small easy little town to get a round. Quite peaceful even by Indian standards. This sacred town allows no meat, alcohol or eggs. Sounds great eh! Nice to keep out all those egg eating trouble makers, really there's nothing worse!
We actually managed to get an 'under the table' omelet! No joking, we ordered it on the hush hush, but soon after the order was placed 2 local guys came into the restaurant and sat at the table next to us. We must have been waiting 40 mins for this omelet. The owner then made up a story to get me to go into the kitchen, here he told me that the two men next to us were police and that's why they couldn't bring out my food! So they had to wait for the 2 boys from the egg squad to leave. Afterwards the owner explained more about the delay, explaining, "We couldn't even have started to cook it. They would have smelt it!" Wow, these boys must go through some serious training to join the
police force out here. They can sniff out a cooking egg from only a few away. I wonder what the penalty is for serving up illegal eggs? Do you think the police have problems with poachers?
We then headed to the small town of Chittor to gorge ourselves with eggs and to check it's fort, according to the guide book 'The finest fort in Rajasthan'. We disagreed. It was, however, the finest in Chittor.
Then to Udaipur. Famous for being a city in Rajasthan that doesn't have a fort. It does have a palace in the middle of a nice looking lake, so who needs a fort. But the true claim to fame that everyone who has ever been to Udaipur will tell you , is that the James Bond movie Octopussy was ( partly) filmed here. All the guesthouses, hotels and restaurants advertise that the movie is played every night. We didn't see it once. We also took a cooking course here
and it's take home message was ' why grill, boil, steam or bake when you can just deep fry everything?'.
Oh yeah, this guy could deep fry until his heart was content, but judging from the fat content of the daily diet, I'd imagine his heart was seldom content. Infact, we were amazed he made it through the lesson.
We then moved on to Jodhpur, where the men don't wear those ' baggy at the top, tight at the ankle' riding pants that the town lends it's name to, but instead they all wear ill fitting polyester trousers pulled up so tight that they should help slow down the rampant over- population problem they have here. Jodhpur's fort was pretty amazing, but the gangs of street kids asking for ' one chocolate' or ' money, money' was quite off putting.
And so, on to our last stop, Jaisalmer, before we head back to Delhi.
(note: all of these photos were taken by Phil - instead of lifted from the internet like most of our pictures - so we have included two pictures taken from the Black Hat Dance for Tibetan New Year that we saw in Darjeeling.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Almost Full Circle!
We noted today that we are only about 800 km from Mumbai where we started. It was a pretty random moment of realization.We have just arrived in the town of Udaipur after a dash around a few places in the state of Rajasthan. But first, a retrospective:
After Varanasi we took a flight to a town called Khajuraho known for its erotic temples. I have to say, as you can probably see for yourself, that they are pretty graphic and acrobatic, but erotic art aside the ruins are fabulous. They're
from the 1600s and in mint condition - the best ruins we've seen in India so far and well worth the flight.We kicked off our time in Khajuraho with an excellent sound and light show, the kind of thing that would normally be pretty low-grade and cheesy, but was actually really interesting and whetted our appetite to see the ruins close-up in the morning. Besides two sets of noisy neighbors, not
too bad in this neck of the woods, we got to hear almost everything said by the narrator.
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Varanas[t]i
*I have tried to upload a few typical ones, but there is a funny setting on this computer so I'll have to do it later
Friday, February 1, 2008
Darjeeling? More like Dar-freezing.
We have ventured North and are now freezing cold in Darjeeling, a town that seems about as un-Indian as they come. We flew from Chennai to Kolkata on the posh Kingfisher airlines and spent a few ritzy days enjoying the food in Kolkata/Calcutta before heading a South to the Sunderban Tiger Reserve.The Tiger Reserve was a nice change of pace from the city - very clean and quiet, but we never really felt that our chances of seeing the illusive Royal Bengal Tiger was much better in Sunderban than Sunderland. The "guide" never spent time spotting from our river boat and our time at the watch towers were short (about 15 mins each) and marred by the hundreds of noisy Indian tourists (despite the constant reminders of "Keep Silence").
Anyway, it was nice to get away and we met some fabulous people on the trip, so it was time well spent.We took a night train over to Darjeeling (more or less) in 2A (luxury!) and arrived yesterday, completely
unprepared for the cold. According to a few people it was -3.5 Celcius a few days ago and there is snow at night - even if there isn't it's freezing cold.The town is built into the side of a hill and everything is rammed tightly beside the few roads that pass through the town (making traffic a lot worse than it needs to be, considering how quiet it is here). Driving up here it was like stepping into another country - the towns look a lot different without all the usual ads and trash, and the change ethnicity has been a bit of a shock. While we knew there was a strong Tibetan community here, we never assumed so many of the people would look so Chinese.
We are going to spend a few days sightseeing here (and cowering in our room, trying to avoid the cold as much as possible) and then we are (probably unwisely) heading even farther North and slightly higher up to Pelling (in Sikkim) to see the Tibetan New Year. If we survive, it will be great.
Friday, January 25, 2008
Sri Lanka - a quick retrospective
Okay, I won't spend much time on this, I'm afraid, but I will say that Sri Lanka was amazing, absolutely amazing. I would put it on a fairly short list of really great places I have been in the world. The people there are so friendly and kind, the country is small enough that you can actually see quite a bit of it in a short time (even though the roads and buses are pretty poor), and what you get for what you spend is very good value. It is almost a mix of India and Thailand. It's great (except for the food, which we'll politely call repetitive).This is roughly our route, missing all the little wobbles of the road in the hills (which take ages to get through, even though the buses go at break-neck speeds around hairpin turns). While the distance doens't look much (it appears to be only about 300 km North to South) it took ages to get anywhere, but what you got to see en-route was good and it was amazing to be at the beach, then 5 hrs later be in the hills, and the next day be in the arid North, surrounded by temples.
I'm not doing it justice by glossing over everything, but it was fabulous.
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Our Photos At Last!
In chronological order...
This was also in Madurai, but free - a tuk tuk driver with the excellent local horn (almost inaudible for once).


